Myanmar (Burma) — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

An afternoon exploring Mandalay

March 2015

One afternoon, I visited the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace, about 15 to 20 minutes north of my hotel.

On the map, it looked like there were four entrances to the palace; but only the east entrance was for tourists (foreigners).

I paid 10,000 kyats (US$10; £6.50) for a Mandalay Archaeological Zone Ticket to enter the Grand Royal Palace. The ticket also gave me access to several other sites around the city. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a map or a list of the other sites.

Photo by Author — Mandalay Archaeological Zone Ticket
Photo by Author — Mandalay Archaeological Zone Ticket
Photo by Author — the back of the Mandalay Archaeological Zone Ticket — I am not sure why it has QR codes
Photo by Author — the back of the Mandalay Archaeological Zone Ticket — I am not sure why it has QR codes

The QR codes on the back of the ticket were a little odd. I scanned them, hoping they might take me to a website or something that provided information about the sites covered by the ticket. What they gave was gibberish.

A moat surrounds the four sides of the palace, hence the north, south, east and west entrances. Standing on the bridge crossing the moat also gives a good view of Mandalay Hill, which I climbed later in the day.

Photo by Author — looking down the moat of Mandalay Grand Royal Palace towards Mandalay Hill
Photo by Author — looking down the moat of Mandalay Grand Royal Palace towards Mandalay Hill

The east entrance to the palace.

Photo by Author — the east entrance to Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — the east entrance to Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

Access to the grounds inside the palace, which seems to be an army camp, was limited.

Photo by Author — limited access to the grounds of Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — limited access to the grounds of Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

The east entrance to Mandalay Grand Royal Palace.

Photo by Author — the main tourist entrance (east) to Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — the main tourist entrance (east) to Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

Even the architecture of the main gate was worth a look.

Photo by Author — architecture of the main gate at Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — architecture of the main gate at Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

The road from the gate towards the main palace complex was long and straight. And, according to the sign at the entrance, I was not allowed to leave the road or take photos to the left or right.

Photo by Author — the road inside the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — the road inside the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

I couldn’t decide if the palace was still a functioning army base or if civilians now lived in some buildings. It all seemed a bit odd.

Photo by Author — great stacking on the bike
Photo by Author — great stacking on the bike

The Grand Royal Palace.

Photo by Author — first sight of the palace
Photo by Author — first sight of the palace

Around the outside of the main palace perimeter, on the north side, were what I can only describe as a series of memorial gardens.

Photo by Author — memorial gardens around the palace
Photo by Author — memorial gardens around the palace

One memorial garden had a plane.

Photo by Author — memorial gardens around the palace
Photo by Author — memorial gardens around the palace

Rather sadly, everything around the palace felt abandoned and run down.

Although it was the height of the dry season in Myanmar, some of the trees in the palace grounds were spectacular.

Photo by Author — stunning tree in the memorial gardens around the palace
Photo by Author — stunning tree in the memorial gardens around the palace

An advantage to walking around the palace’s perimeter was that I got to see it from many angles, and it was stunning, albeit a little run down.

Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

As with many places in Myanmar, small food stalls were dotted around.

Photo by Author — food stall near the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — food stall near the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

And people were relaxing or waiting for a customer for their taxi.

Photo by Author — relaxing in the grounds of the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — relaxing in the grounds of the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

And the weirdest thing I saw was an abandoned crazy golf course among the trees. Why was it built? And why was it now abandoned?

Photo by Author — an abandoned crazy golf course at the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — an abandoned crazy golf course at the Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

No one else seemed to do the walk around the perimeter. And I didn’t know whether I should be worried about this or not, particularly after the earlier sign near the entrance.

Photo by Author — the palace perimeter road — where is everyone?
Photo by Author — the palace perimeter road — where is everyone?

The palace was stunning.

Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace
Photo by Author — Mandalay Grand Royal Palace

The Watch Tower at the palace was worth climbing as it gave a good view of the palace layout.

Photo by Author — palace watchtower
Photo by Author — palace watchtower

Finally, it was time to enter the main palace complex.

Photo by Author — the main entrance to the palace complex
Photo by Author — the main entrance to the palace complex

The view from the palace back down to the entrance.

Photo by Author — the view from the palace back down to the entrance
Photo by Author — the view from the palace back down to the entrance

One noticeable thing was that the palace was designed to intimidate visitors with the long approach and the architecture. This process of intimidation continued inside the complex, with some very long corridors, views, and impressive rooms.

Lots of ‘long-views’ in the place.

Photo by Author — one of the many long views in the palace
Photo by Author — one of the many long views in the palace
Photo by Author — another long view
Photo by Author — another long view

The main throne room was very grand.

Photo by Author — main throne room in the palace
Photo by Author — main throne room in the palace

And a nearby drawing of the palace made me appreciate the size of the complex.

Photo by Author — the palace complex
Photo by Author — the palace complex

The throne room was positioned at the front of the palace, looking down the long drive.

Photo by Author — visitors to the palace
Photo by Author — visitors to the palace

There were waiting areas in the wings to the left and right of the throne room. These rooms would have been used by people waiting for an audience.

Photo by Author — a palace waiting area
Photo by Author — a palace waiting area
Photo by Author — inside the palace complex
Photo by Author — inside the palace complex

Climbing the Watch Tower was worth the effort as it gave a great view of the palace complex. Be warned, though, that the tower was a bit rickety.

Photo by Author — a view of the palace complex from the watch tower
Photo by Author — a view of the palace complex from the watch tower
Photo by Author — a view of the palace complex from the watch tower
Photo by Author — a view of the palace complex from the watch tower

Wandering around the palace complex was very interesting, and I wondered about the different buildings’ functions. Who, for example, lived in this building, and what did they do?

Photo by Author — who would have lived here?
Photo by Author — who would have lived here?
Photo by Author — some visitors to the palace
Photo by Author — some visitors to the palace
Photo by Author — more, slightly less grand buildings in the palace complex
Photo by Author — more, slightly less grand buildings in the palace complex

And this was all a bit odd.

Photo by Author — what is going on? Filming in the palace?
Photo by Author — what is going on? Filming in the palace?

While exploring the palace, I came across a film set. Nothing too much, one camera, a few technicians and a director. They were filming something in the grounds of the palace.

And I took a photograph of the people filming.

And was told that it was not allowed. Why not?

So, here are the photos.

Photo by Author — filming in the palace — no photographs allowed
Photo by Author — filming in the palace — no photographs allowed
Photo by Author — filming in the palace — no photographs allowed
Photo by Author — filming in the palace — no photographs allowed

And it wasn’t just me photographing the people filming.

Photo by Author — don’t photograph the filming
Photo by Author — don’t photograph the filming

Why can’t you photograph a film shoot?

On with the tour.

By now, I was heading back towards the throne room, and I became aware again of some long views in the palace.

Photo by Author — looking towards the throne room
Photo by Author — looking towards the throne room

And this is the door that leads to the main throne at the front of the palace.

Photo by Author — view from the back of the throne room
Photo by Author — view from the back of the throne room

And back to the front of the palace. And time to leave.

On my way back down the drive, I came across a small shrine and decided to have a look.

Photo by Author — a small shrine near the palace
Photo by Author — a small shrine near the palace
Photo by Author — inside a small shrine near the palace
Photo by Author — inside a small shrine near the palace
Photo by Author — long steps to the top
Photo by Author — long steps to the top
Photo by Author — the shrine at the top
Photo by Author — the shrine at the top

Finally, I was back outside the palace complex.

Photo by Author — the palace moat
Photo by Author — the palace moat

And back on the main streets.

Photo by Author — how many up?
Photo by Author — how many up?

The palace was spectacular.

However, a lot of it was rebuilt after it was destroyed in the second world war. It was sad that a lot of money had been spent on rebuilding and reconstructing the site, and now it was being allowed to fall into disrepair. OK, so it may not be original, but judging by the old plans and photos on display, it was a faithful reconstruction that highlighted how splendid it must have been when it was a royal residence.