Myanmar (Burma) — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma) world’s biggest book

That is a big book!

March 2015

Next to the Sandamuni Pagoda is the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines. I found all this confusing as I couldn’t determine whether the Sandamuni Pagoda was part of the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines complex or if they were completely separate.

At the time, the UNESCO website stated: "The Stone Inscription is a collection of 729 stone slabs on which are inscribed the whole of the Buddhist scriptures whose religious and social significance is important for Asia. It records the Fifth Great Synod convened by King Mindon and which was the significant event of the Buddhist religion and its devotees."

Photo by Author — the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

On my visits to shrines and holy places in Myanmar, I removed my shoes and walked around in my socks. But, at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, there was an ‘officially’ no sock policy.

I had always taken off my shoes but kept my socks on as I thought it didn’t matter; plus, I was hoping to get some protection (albeit limited) from my socks for my poor feet. Should I be completely barefoot? No one objected at the other places I had visited or were they being polite?

Photo by Author — no shoes or socks at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — no shoes or socks at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

The pagoda was spectacular.

Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Shrines containing the tablets.

Photo by Author — tablet shrines at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — tablet shrines at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

There were also some great-looking trees in the compound.

Photo by Author — trees at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — trees at the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Another beautiful pagoda (paya).

Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Some old trees need a little help keeping their branches in the air.

Photo by Author — tree supports
Photo by Author — tree supports

There was also a small shop in the enclosure selling statues, souvenirs, and gongs. One seller followed me for some time and kept asking if I wanted a gong or some postcards. I didn’t.

Photo by Author — the shop near the tree — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — the shop near the tree — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — walkway — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — walkway — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

There was also a little girl selling Jasmine flowers (Myat Lay) on strings. These strings of flowers are often seen, due to their delightful and long-lasting smell, hanging from rearview mirrors of cars and in women’s hair.

Photo by Author — Jasmine flowers (Myat Lay) seller
Photo by Author — Jasmine flowers (Myat Lay) seller

At the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, people, like at the other shrines I had visited, were selling flowers for offerings.

Photo by Author — flower and offering sellers — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — flower and offering sellers — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — jasmine flower seller — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — jasmine flower seller — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

At the entrance to the shrine was a UNESCO dedication stone.

Photo by Author — the UNESCO dedication stone — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Along with a carved explanation of the site:

Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines, Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Which says:

“1. This pagoda was built by King Mindon in 1859 AD. Its height is 187 feet and 9 inches.

2. The inscribing on the 729 marble stone slabs of the Buddhist canon (Tripitaka Texts) was started in 1860 and completed in 1868.

3. The contents of the 729 monoliths of white marble stone slabs (Tripitaka Texts are as follows:

(a) 3 books of Sutta Pitaka on (410) marble slabs

(b) 5 books of Vinaya Pitaka on (111) marble slabs.

(c) 7 books of Abhidhamma Pitaka on (208) marble slabs.

(d) The inscribing history of all marble slabs on (1) slabs.

4. The Dama Cetis (each slab has a small temple erected over it) were erected within three enclosures of the pagoda on 13 acres of land.”

The complex is stunning and is worth a visit.